Where was this place?! Finally found it in the lower level of a Corktown strip mall, obscured by parked vehicles. Upon entering, the moist heat from the kitchen fogged up my glasses. My vision was letting me down.
Vision did not fail Tracy and Dan Brisco whose passion for smoked meat became Rustic Reuben - a sandwich spot with something for everyone, but most importantly – Reubens! Many assume that “corned beef, sauerkraut and Russian sauce” signals “European”. But with written references dating back to the 1920s, Nebraska and New York are top contenders for the origin story of this sandwich named for someone called “Reuben”.
Hailing from the Maritimes and Ottawa, the Briscos adopted Hamilton – the city where they met – 30 years ago. Dan was a plumber on a project being managed by Tracy – who has kept that day job, joining the Rustic team from 5 to 8 p.m. Dan switched careers to train as a chef and after working in several esteemed Hamilton kitchens, they launched Rustic Reuben in July 2019.
Their menu has settled into one that works in their setting and is popular with diners. Soups, salads, chili, Reubens and other sandwiches meet various dietary preferences. We regretted taking a pass on Appetizers when we overheard diners ordering Dill Pickle Soup. Tracy explained how this Polish soup is made with pickle brine, carrots, potatoes and pickles in a vegetable broth base.
No regrets about our choices from the five Reuben options (which included turkey, beef and vegan). The “OG” / Original and the Pork Belly were both exceptionally good. The OG was a generous serving of corned beef, sauerkraut, Swiss cheese, marble rye, and Russian sauce (which resembles Thousand Island dressing), with a bread & butter pickle.
Tracy stresses that their meats are not processed / deli meats. For the corned beef, brisket is brined for 10 days, then rubbed and slow roasted overnight, with a fresh corned beef coming out of the oven every day. Even the Cajun turkey breast is smoked on site – one trick of their impressive Rationale Oven which miraculously makes perfect, crisp fries – without deep frying!
It’s easier to list what’s not made in-house - mainly for lack of space. Pickles are from Strubbs. Sauerkraut from Germany and breads are local. The Pork Belly was the same as the OG, just changing the meat. “Changes” are fine and Tracy reports that they are open to modifications – say if someone doesn’t like marbled rye.
For those who don’t like the Reuben formula, whimsically named (meat and vegetarian) sandwiches include a wrap, some on Ciabatta and some on Brioche. Pork belly again makes an appearance in a popular sandwich – The Little Piggy, featuring seared pork belly, Sriracha bacon, tomato jam, and bacon aioli. For two dollars extra, sandwiches are served with perfectly sized portions of fries and salad (house or Caesar’s). I couldn’t resist Popeye’s Revenge which – you guessed it – is a spinach salad with Cajun turkey breast, craisins, pickled onion, carrot, fabulous honey mustard vinaigrette and croutons.
The fresh and delicious croutons are made from cornbread – a recurring menu item that makes another appearance in Cornbread Bread Pudding where it’s combined with maple cream and caramel sauce. Because so many diners are full after the generous portions of all that precedes dessert, this treat may take a holiday, to be replaced by cookies - more easily transported back to home or office.
Located close to medical offices and the hospital, many diners drop in for meal breaks or quick off-site meetings. Neighbours in this thriving community make Rustic Reuben their grab ‘n go stop on the way home.
One dessert item that will not be removed is Bacon S'Mores. Bacon strips are basket woven into a square, “kissed” with maple syrup and baked into “crackers” which sandwich real marshmallows and chocolate. This was undeniably sinful and indescribably delicious.
Throughout the experience, attentive and accommodating service was provided by Mark Simpson who describes himself as Tracy’s handsome younger brother. After sixteen years, Mark ended his stint as chef at McMaster University’s Alumni Club and joined Rustic Reuben as a partner. Tracy and Dan’s three children are also pitching in, making this a family business.
All of this is in a green space where rustic is key. There is one regular table, with mostly bar stool seating at live edge slab tables created by Rustic & Reclaimed – who also made the wooden serving boards. Reclaimed stained glass faux windows are an eye-catching focal point. There is a varied beverage menu, though no license yet.
Rustic Reuben is a popular catering choice and has already received multiple Readers’ Choice Awards – including Best Sandwiches (Gold), Best New Restaurant (Platinum). You have to “see” this place – and return often to work your way through the terrific menu!
