I recently enjoyed this dip while visiting long-time friend, DM. Truth be told it was hard to stop eating it. Resistance seemed futile. I asked for the recipe and made it right away. DM did not know the origin story of the dip. The result? An example of how I can get carried away researching a recipe. The story ends with a modern twist on this decades-old treat.
If culinary history is not your thing feel free to Jump to the Recipe.
AND if you want to see the plain and simple recipe I received from DM scroll to the bottom.
DM referred to her neighbour’s mom making it, did some math, and guessed it might be from the 1950s. Could be. The recipe appears online with some frequency - and a modification here and there - for example, the addition of Worcestershire sauce, green onion, lemon, red bell pepper etc.
Some of the recipes posted make origin guesses - that it dates back to the 80s, 50s and maybe even earlier. If that many people know about the recipe, could it be from a common cookbook such as the Best of Bridge series? I consulted with the Culinary Historians of Canada who did some educated guessing and one pointed me to the Internet Archive and a free booklet that had been distributed by Knox Gelatin in 1963.
Why does the recipe include gelatin? Many of the online recipes were called Shrimp Mold based on the fact that the mixture was meant to be put into a fancy mold - maybe even one shaped like a fish. It would set like Jell-O after being refrigerated and could then be flipped onto a serving platter for presentation. Google “shrimp mold” if you want to see some examples.
Ah, gelatin. A few months ago I listened to a Gastropod podcast that outlined gelatin’s history (up to the invention of Jell-O). If you’ve ever made Bone Broth or the like you know it can take hours to create gelatin. Gelatin powder was a breakthrough that was patented in 1845, a patent that was foolishly sold for $450 and eventually was the cornerstone of the multi-million dollar Jell-O corporation. Jello-O did not catch on at first. Here’s one “marketing” strategy that made a difference. (From the podcast) what “really cemented Jell-O’s identity as *the* all-American dessert. Orator came up with a plan to serve immigrants Jell-O on the boat on the way to America—and then, when they got to Ellis Island, they were literally given their own personal Jell-O mold.” [Read more about Jell-O.]
My interest in gelatin led me to an episode of another favourite podcast - Eat My Globe. The guest was Ken Albala - a prof at California’s University of the Pacific. One of his books (2023) is “The Great Gelatin Revival: Savory Aspics, Jiggly Shots, and Outrageous Desserts.” I wrote to him about this mystery and he couldn’t pin down a date. However, he is interviewed in this Gastro Obscura article about gelatin - How America Embraced Aspics With Threatening Auras: From futuristic test kitchens to Under-the-Sea Salad, midcentury Jell-O took a turn for the weird. That article includes images of gelatin recipes for crab and shrimp molds dating back to 1910 and 1915!! Mind you, the recipes were not quite the same and neither used Philadelphia Cream Cheese which existed since 1872. [Read more at Eater.]
Ah yes, back to the recipe. You’ll see I have taken a few liberties with it. Others have taken modifications even further. In January 2023, Peter Som, writing in Saveur, dusts off his Grandma’s 1977 recipe for Shrimp Mold. Here’s the story which includes a photo of her handwritten recipe almost exactly like the one DM sent me! Here’s his updated version of the recipe (which does not use gelatin).
Here's the Recipe!
If you skipped the history section, there are a few things you do need to know. If you are not using a mold, there’s no need to use the gelatin, but add a wee bit if you think it will add body to the dip. This makes about 4 cups so you may gift some if you can’t eat it all within a few days. (A friend experimented with freezing extra amounts and said it worked well.) Note that the history section concludes with an updated modern version. (I haven’t tried that yet.)
Getting Ready:
best prepared the day before; keeps well refrigerated for 7-10 days (if it lasts that long)
buy cream cheese pkg/brick (8 oz/250 g)
buy 2 cans cocktail shrimp (106g x 2 ) - could be made with frozen shrimp as long as you thoroughly thaw and then pat dry
buy tomato soup - 10 fl oz / 284 ml (Heinz was recommended for best tomato flavour and having made this once using another brand I tend to agree)
be sure you have onion, celery and mayo (I use Miracle Whip - see Notes for a story about this)
1 pkg Knox gelatin (use half or all of the pkg)
1 can tomato soup
1 pkg. cream cheese (8 oz/250 g)
1 envelope Knox unflavored gelatin
Cube the cream cheese - easier to do when it’s right out of the fridge. Mix the soup, cream cheese and gelatin together in a saucepan over low heat, whisking until the cheese is thoroughly dissolved/incorporated. Remove from the heat and let cool to lukewarm at least.
3/4 cup finely chopped onion (or shallot)
3/4 cup finely chopped celery
You can do this as step one, or while the cream cheese is melting into the soup - as long as you keep an eye on that!! It can burn! My knife skills are pretty good but I choose to be lazy and imprecise here. I sort of measure 3/4 cup and then toss both the onion and celery into my food processor. A few pulses = finely chopped!
2 cans of cocktail shrimp (drained thoroughly)
1/2 - 1 cup mayonnaise (not salad dressing)
Drain the shrimp and pat the shrimp dry. The recipe says to mash them a bit but I find after pressing them dry they are kinda mashed. Good enough for me.
I have used only 1/2 cup of mayo - and I use Miracle Whip. See Notes below.
Combine the shrimp, mayo, onions and celery. Add the soup/cream cheese mixture when it has cooled down a bit. Stir thoroughly. Distribute as desired into serving dishes and refrigerate. It will taste better some hours later or ideally the next day.
IF you decide to make this as a mold (meaning you will have added a full package of gelatin) the mold or container you are using should be lightly oiled. That should make the dip slip out easily when you invert it onto a serving plate.
Am betting this would be great with any cracker but after my visit with DM I am now also a fan of Wheat Thins Multigrain Snacking Crackers.
Notes and Tips...
Gelatin - one version of the old recipe says to soften the gelatin in 1/4 of cold water. I didn’t want to add more liquid, so just added it to the soup/cheese mixture - sometimes only a half package so as to not make the dip too stiff.
Tomato Soup - do try to get Heinz but it is still delicious with other brands
Mayo vs Miracle Whip - note that the recipe sent to me says to use mayonnaise and not salad dressing. You might wonder what that refers to. If you have Miracle Whip in your pantry check the label. It may say “spread” or may say “dressing” - never referring to itself as “mayo.” “Miracle Whip is a brand of creamy mayo-like spread that was introduced during the 1933 World's Fair, according to Kraft-Heinz's website. Like mayo, Miracle Whip contains oil, an acid (vinegar), and eggs. It also contains high fructose corn syrup, mustard powder, paprika, dried garlic, and ‘spice.’ Kraft-Heinz labels Miracle Whip as a ‘dressing,’ but it's spreadable like mayo.” You may want to read the brief article that offered the above quote - Mayo vs. Miracle Whip: The Experts Weigh In
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