Throughout my various purges of recipes, Chocolatier Magazine (now defunct) has been a survivor. I cannot part with any of them. Most are over 30 years old and while some pages are splattered and torn from frequent use - others tantalize with recipes I'd still like to try one day.
This recipe is from Vol. 1, No. 7 (1985), and was part of a chocolate cookbook review written by Richard Sax, referring to Lesly Berger's The Gourmet's Guide to Chocolate.
I never knew who Mrs. London is/was, but did a bit of research for this post. I don't have Berger's book to verify, but am betting this is from the Mrs. London's Bakery in Saratoga Springs, N.Y. This 1999 article in the NYT refers to the bakery's 25 year history.
As a flourless chocolate cake it is gluten-free - though if memory serves me well, GF was not being discussed much thirty-two years ago. I wasn't able to find any info on the history of flourless cakes. (Drop me a note if you know more.) Links to Italian Torta Caprese are noteworthy. This cake is basically chocolate, eggs and some sugar - who could imagine that would work? But it does... and in case you are imagining the cake to be dense (like Sacher Torte) or fudgy (like brownies) - just the opposite - it is light and delicate. The cake must chill for at least 4 hours, so plan ahead - for me this has always been a "day before" prep.
Making the cake is simple. I have modified the method a bit and added important tips about some quirks. After 15 minutes of baking, it looks glorious, but moments after removing it from the oven it collapses and looks rather sad. (I should have taken a picture...) We could start an "ugly cake" trend, but even so, it begs to be enrobed in whipped cream - in this case, a ganache-like icing. (Be sure to read my Notes / caution about the filling/topping.)
Getting ready:
kirschwasser (see Notes)
prep pans; I use springform pans; line the bottom of two 8 x 2" cake pans with parchment (see this how-to); secure the parchment to the bottom of the pan with a bit of butter; butter and flour the parchment and sides of the pans
bring eggs to room temperature; separate eggs
measure out ingredients
preheat oven to 375 F
6 large eggs, separated
10 TB sugar
Cake Step 1. In the step following this, beaten egg yolks, and then beaten egg whites will be added to melted chocolate. I find it easier to have the eggs ready to be added.
Beat the egg whites until they form soft peaks. Then add the sugar, one TB at a time.
In a separate bowl beat the egg yolks (you can use the same beater) just until they become thicker and lighter.
6 oz semisweet chocolate
1 tsp vanilla
1 TB strong coffee
Cake Step 2. (Chocolate can be complex - see Notes below.) Melt the chocolate in a heat-proof glass bowl over a pot containing a small amount of simmering water. The original recipe says to stir the beaten egg yolks into the melted chocolate - I never do that, fearing the risk of chocolate scrambled eggs. Instead, I begin by mixing small amounts of the chocolate into the beaten egg yolks. (Referred to as tempering.) I do this several times and when the eggs begin to resemble an egg/chocolate mixture - only then do I combine that egg yolk/chocolate mixture with the rest of the chocolate. Stir in the vanilla and coffee.
A small amount at a time, fold the beaten egg whites into the chocolate mixture. Divide the batter evenly between the two prepared pans. Bake at 375 F for 15-18 minutes. (I remove them at 15 - by then the cakes have risen and the top is dry - poking a cake tester is not helpful for this cake.) As previously mentioned, the cakes will collapse - don't be alarmed. Run a small knife around the the edges to loosen the cakes from the pan and then place them on a rack to cool.
6 ounces semisweet chocolate
2 cups heavy cream
Kirschwasser
Icing and filling. Melt chocolate (chips or coarsely chopped). Cool this but take care not to let this become too cool. While the chocolate is cooling whip the cream to soft peaks. (I don’t use a chilled bowl or beater - it makes the whipped cream so cold that combining it with the melted chocolate can yield problematic results - always the case when combining ingredients that are not at the same temp.)
Whisk small amounts of the (somewhat cooled) chocolate into the whipped cream - obviously, if the chocolate is too hot it will liquefy the cream but really cold cream may "give the combo a grainy texture. Be careful!! Continue this until totally combined.
See below re how to assemble the cake using kirschwasser and filling.
Assembly.
The cake layers are a bit delicate. Once they have cooled and you have removed the parchment, place one layer on the serving dish with the "collapsed" side up.
Sprinkle this layer with kirschwasser - the recipe never specified the amount - whatever it takes to dampen the entire surface - that might even be 1/4 cup. I use a wee basting brush to apply it.
Cover the layer with at least one-third of the filling/topping. Then place a clean springform ring around this bottom layer. This will stabilize the cake while being chilled.
Then carefully invert the other layer ("collapsed" side down) and nestle it on top of the filling. Give it a gentle push as it meets the filling below.
You'll end up with a flat cake top and a cake that will be almost flush with the springform ring - which can be tightened a bit if necessary. “Baste” that with some kirschwasser as well and cover this with plastic wrap.
Chill the cake for at least 4 hours or overnight. Reserve / refrigerate the rest of the chocolate mixture/icing in a covered container to be used to cover the sides and decorate before serving.
After 4 hours or the next day - run a sharp knife around the edges before loosening the springform mould. Spread the chocolate cream mixture on the sides and top and decorate as you wish. Sifted cocoa powder can be sprinkled on top.
IMPORTANT TIP IF CHILLED OVERNIGHT! The whipped cream icing that has been refrigerated will be sort of stiff and not soft. That can make decorating the delicate cake a bit tricky. Here’s the easy solution. Take the “icing” out of the fridge for about 10 minutes, then transfer it to a mixing bowl. Add 2-3 TBs of whipping cream and whip it with the whisk attachment. It should return to a lovely, easily spreadable consistency.
Notes and Tips...
Kirschwasser - sometimes called Kirsch, translates to "cherry water". It's available at liquor stores. It's use in this cake does not result in an over-powering "alcohol" taste, but I'm sure it's key to the overall taste. Many recipes for Black Forest Cake also use sprinklings of Kirsch.
Chocolate - If you are expert at working with chocolate, ignore this. Otherwise, these tips should help. Use really good quality chocolate - it melts and mixes better than the typical grocery store brands; I use Ghiradelli Bittersweet 60%. As Mary Berry from the Great British Bake-off says, chocolate melts in children's pockets, so we need not be aggressive with this task. You can Google methods that include the use of a microwave. This recipe suggests a heat-proof glass bowl over a pot with a wee bit of water. In truth, the original recipe specifies hot, not simmering water - but that goes against everything I have ever heard. Recipes usually specify "simmering, not hot water". I can't help thinking it was a typo. Online, you can also find debates about whether to use a glass or metal bowl. if you want to be very expert, you can measure the temperature while melting chocolate to aim for the optimal point. Chocolate can be "overheated" and even burnt so take care with this step.
Coffee - consider using instant espresso to make such a small measure of coffee.
Like Chocolatier? Try these Chocolate Kiss Cookies
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