Kitchen Bliss

 It may seem odd that Loondocks - an eatery aiming to provide casual fine dining - should have a name that evokes Canada’s symbol of nature and northern wilderness, but this is a story of grandparents and cottages.

When Kevin Duynstee and his wife Brittany decided to open a restaurant in 2012, they began in Port Carling. The restaurant name was a tribute to their childhood memories of Muskoka holidays with grandparents, and the beautiful calls of the local bird – the Loon. In 2018, the Duynstees expanded to Burlington to be closer to family. Despite success and awards in Port Carling, they closed that location this year focusing their energy and creativity closer to their new home.

Brittany runs the front of the house and sidelines as a yoga instructor. With education in the hospitality business, Kevin’s cooking craft comes from over a decade of apprenticeships at top class hotels leaving him an accomplished chef turning out plates reflecting French and Italian influences, using seasonal and local ingredients. Everything is made in house - except the breads.

Our meal began with a selection served with olive oil and balsamic vinegar. The ciabatta was the most fresh and enjoyable, more so than the somewhat dry baguette and the raisin bread which seemed an odd combo with the dip. We took a pass on starter soup and salads, and from the Tapas menu chose Prosciutto and Fig Flatbread and Halibut Cakes. The flatbread was very fresh, adorned with arugula, prosciutto, and fresh figs with a sprinkling of pine nuts and a drizzle of honey. This symphony of flavours worked well and more than made up for the bread basket.

Next, we had the halibut cakes - a refreshing change from the more cliché crab cakes. Three generous portions were delicately seasoned so as to not overwhelm the flavour of this lovely fish. Some mild chili seasoning left a warm mouth feel, balanced with a lemon twist. Fresh with a crispy crust, these were nicely plated on avocado aioli, with shaved fennel, microgreens and taro root chips. Another excellent starter.

One of our mains was the Scallop Risotto offering further evidence of excellent ingredients combined with expert preparation. Diver scallops are hand-harvested and larger than what most of us purchase for home cooking. These were seared to the perfect colour, and almost melted in the mouth with a sweet buttery flavour. Along with the risotto they were more filling than one might have expected and three scallops turned out to be enough to satisfy. The risotto itself was the right consistency, enhanced with wild boar bacon and freshly grated Parmigiano Reggiano cheese. Appetizingly presented, it was dressed with crisped asparagus slivers.

Loondocks has a reputation for great pasta – all made onsite – and the Wild Mushroom Arrabiata did not disappoint. The spicy tomato sauce characteristic of Arrabiata was paired with mushrooms, kale and Parmigiano Reggiano. To “beef” up the meal, we added Angus beef tenderloin tips – which were indeed tender.

We were on a roll and saved room for a shared dessert, choosing from a menu that was somewhat underwhelming in its creativity. Technically, there are enough predictable choices to make diners happy – ice cream or gelato, crème brûlée, carrot cake, and flourless chocolate cake (good for gluten-free diners). The house-made cheesecake with rotating flavours was “cookies and cream” the day we dined. We shared the flourless chocolate cake, nicely plated with fruit and Chantilly cream. It was rich and not as dense as might be expected, pairing well with the subtle flavour of the cream. My quibble is that the dessert menu lacked the imaginative touches that characterized the rest of the menu – perhaps linked to not having a full time pastry chef.

The modern rustic décor with a fireplace alcove, features nature photos – many taken by Kevin’s photographer sister. Tucked into a corner is a bar with a TV. In addition to the main dining area there is a ground floor and rooftop patio. The mix of diners was eclectic ranging from seniors to families, and “casual” fine dining was indeed casual. On this hot humid day many diners, in shorts, headed to the rooftop to enjoy the cool early evening breezes.

They have a kiddie menu, and a brunch menu on Sundays from 10 to 2. Most plates can be made gluten free, and a vegetarian and vegan menu is available. Loondocks has special events such as gin tasting on the rooftop patio, as well as events with Muskoka Breweries, and tasting menus for the classic holiday events. They participate in Taste of Burlington, contribute to charities and on Mondays they do a First Responder appreciation day. Firefighters, nurses, police, paramedics and the military can enjoy a discount.

Burlington is family for the Duynstees and they have quickly made it home for Loondocks. Says Kevin, “We’re happy to be in Burlington. We enjoyed the first year and look forward to many more.”