Duck Liver Mousse
Polenta Chips
When we lunched at Kamoosh Bistro in Waterdown, the Executive Chef was out grocery shopping for his upscale Italian eatery. Part of the Kamoosh brand is that all ingredients are carefully sourced from local farms and markets. Meats are butchered onsite and (other than the bread) as much as possible is made in house - for example, pickles, preserves, pasta, and stocks. Chef says he is against being supplied by a truck filled with boxed and frozen ingredients.
The Executive Chef is Koosh Kahnamoui who, with his wife Kim as front of the house, co-owns Kamoosh with his brother Kam. Prior to opening Kamoosh in Waterdown in June 2018, he had operated Koosh Bistro in Westdale from 2009-2016. Though originally trained in tech, Kahnamoui found his passion for food, forged in his mother and grandmother’s Persian kitchens, to be an irresistible pathway. He began his kitchen apprenticeship in Ottawa as a dishwasher, eventually working with many reputable chefs, focusing mainly on Italian cuisine.
Relocating to this area twenty years ago, he and his family still live in Hamilton. The bistro is described as upscale, though this refers more to the food. Kahnamoui stresses that they aim for a relaxed dress code, in a welcoming unpretentious atmosphere. It is easy to relax with a choice of seating that includes banquettes, booths and comfortable chairs. Calm colours are accented with chic modern lighting and wall coverings. The attractive patio is well protected from the distractions of occasional traffic.
Even at lunch the menu is surprisingly extensive with cicchetti (small tapas-style snacks), salads, appetizers, pasta, risotto and pizza. It was Cicchetti Tuesday, which meant that diners can order three tapas for the price of two. Who can resist that?
We weren’t sure what to expect from Polenta Chips and Ricotta but this was delicious. Described as “apple cider thyme polenta”, Kahnamoui explained that the polenta is mixed, not with water, but with Bennett’s unfiltered cider and minced fresh thyme. This flavourful mixture is briefly oven roasted and then sliced into precise triangles that are quickly deep fried. Served with lemon ricotta and a balsamic reduction dip this was a great start.
The next cicchetti sandwiched anchovy fillets between sage leaves which were then fried in a tempura-like crust. Apparently popular in Venice, they were new to us and another hit. The third cicchetti was Duck Liver Mousse (one of several French items that snuck onto the menu) served with grilled bread and pear preserves. The Mousse was one of several dishes on the menu linked to the Mealshare program. For each Mealshare item purchased, a donation is made to this organization helping to feed youth in need.
We were nowhere near the main course, but already feeling satisfied after three cicchetti. Kahnamoui said that some guests actually design their entire dining experience around these sharing plates. We added an intriguing appetizer before our mains – Marrow and Heart. Roasted veal marrow is served with lamb hearts alongside pickled radishes and Torshi Liteh (Persian pickled eggplant) that definitely enhanced the main ingredients. We enjoyed the bone marrow which was soft with a delicate sweet flavour – and reported to have health benefits. The heart got a mixed response. One of us found it to be a bit leathery, leaving more for the other to devour. Overall, a unique dish that we enjoyed.
After all we had eaten we feared we’d be taking away leftovers, but our main dishes were reasonably priced for a reasonable portion. Despite many tempting pasta choices, we ordered the Koosh Pasta which had been a well-loved item at their previous restaurant, Koosh. Fettuccine with mushrooms, prosciutto di Parma and Parmigiano Reggiano in a garlic white wine cream sauce did not disappoint. For the beet risotto, Arborio rice was cooked to perfection in a house-made beet juice / sour cream reduction and was made even more agreeable with the addition of pancetta, organic peas, goat cheese, and three types of roasted beets - golden, sugar cane and red.
For a shared dessert we blissed out with the Chocolate Crespelle – a thin crepe filled with chocolate hazelnut cream cheese icing and fresh bananas. This was nestled on crème anglaise, and topped with chocolate ganache, whipped cream and toasted hazelnuts. This “Italian crepe” distracted us from another dessert that we’ll have to try next time – Persian Rice Pudding – rose water, vanilla bean and cardamom rice pudding with maple syrup and pistachios.
There are several more Persian influenced dishes on the menu, such as Veal Cheek Croquette, Oxtail Stew, and Sour Cherry Stuffed Chicken.
Children are accommodated in this family-friendly setting, as are dietary restrictions. Brunch is available on Saturday and Sunday. Kamoosh offers takeout, catering and takes group bookings. The extensive drinks menu offers selections of wine, beer, spirits and creative cocktails.
