Kitchen Bliss

The “blackboard menu” was brought to our table by owner Luca Vitali who took time to explain the menu, and his goal of sharing the authentic cuisine and lifestyle of Tuscany.

Vitali’s roots are in Radda, capital of the Chianti Classico wine area, in the province of Siena. A winemaker, he arrived in 2008 with plans to work in the Niagara wine industry, but by 2010 had instead opened a tiny shop in Grimsby selling Italian imports - featuring his family’s olive oil and balsamic vinegars, and bi-weekly imports of cheeses such as Burrata. Last summer, the business moved to a charming renovated house with a patio, and Casa Toscana became a restaurant (which expanded over the winter) – still selling the usual wares, along with desserts, olives and cured meats. The bright space combines pine with white walls and chairs, and rustic accents, and a welcoming black and green patio.

Food is a family affair for Vitali who shares the bounty of what his family produces in all he cooks and sells. His mother runs a cooking school in Tuscany – the first to open in the region. He taps into all this heritage with the cuisine he offers – and he is serious about authenticity. “There will never be on my menu garlic bread, veal or chicken parmigiana, or spaghetti and meatballs – which do not exist in Italian cuisine.”

My dining partner and I were joined by another couple and together we sampled almost everything on the chalkboard, with a bit of sharing along the way. I may as well say up front that this meal was flawless, so kudos to Chef Victoria Scott whose talents have paired well with Vitali’s tutelage and leadership.

The first of our four appetizers was Burratina di Puglia. This is a small Burrata that Vitali imports weekly from Italy. The outer surface of this handmade cheese is mozzarella and when cut, out pours a soft, creamy, shredded mozzarella called stracciatella. The result is divine and the quality surpasses anything I have purchased elsewhere. (Addendum - this Burrata is now available to purchase all the time - and I must say I do that often!)

Caprino di Montagna is a goat cheese from the Italian Alps, and this fresco, creamy version was served with toasted bread and salami. By oven-toasting the salami briefly it became crisp with a frilly-edge – making for an impressive presentation. It’s a trick I’ll be sure to try at home!

One of our salads was Insalata di BarbeRosse e Caprizola - mixed greens, with red beets and Tuscan Blue Pecorino. Insalata di Arance, Finocchi e Cipolla was pretty and combined shaved fennel with slivers of orange, red onion, and a micro green garnish. Both primed the digestive juices for all that came next.

The day we dined was “gnocchi day”. My dining partner chose butter and sage, with other options being tomato sauce, Tuscan ragu, or gorgonzola. The pillow-y gnocchi were delectable. Vitali runs cooking courses during the fall/winter and making gnocchi is often featured in classes that create an entire meal.

Agnelo Stufato con la Polenta is lamb stew. In keeping with the excellence of the meal the lamb was tender and flavourful, sitting atop “Goldilocks” polenta – not too runny, not too stiff – just right.

Salsiccie e Fagliolo is simply sausage with beans, but this dish was complex and appealing in looks and flavour. Pasta all’amatriciana was also devoured. The classic slightly spicy tomato sauce with guanciale (salt-cured pork jowl) and pecorino enrobed bucatini pasta. All the pastas at Casa Toscana are made in-house, to Vitali’s high standards. He imports durum flour from the Altamura region of Italy and mineralizes the water supply at Casa Toscana to yield pasta that matches his taste of home.

The desserts brought smiles all around. Panna Cotta (literally cooked cream – molded and chilled) was silky with a blueberry tipping and fresh fruit. Fresh Cannoli Siciliani were filled with sweetened ricotta. The Tartufo, a frozen confection, was a nice closing act. Most interesting was the Torta Tenerina. This flourless chocolate cake with a creamy interior has a century-old history claiming it was invented for the Duke of Ferrara, in the Emilia Romagna region.

As a winemaker, Vitali has curated a nice imported / local wine list. Casa Toscana’s menu is evolving as the season changes. Seafood is featured only on weekends. Another feature – every second weekend - is “Musical Saturdays” – a traditional Italian party (always fully booked) showcasing Vitali’s musical talents.

Casa Toscana is available for events and catering, and Vitali conducts tours to Italy each year. As he says, “We bring Tuscany to you, or we bring you to Tuscany” – all with a focus on family – in Italy, and the family he is building here with customers who like to dine and learn with this charming host.

If you visit Casa Toscana on a Thursday (which is also Gnocchi Day!) after 3:00 enjoy the vibrant Grimsby Farmers’ Market and treat yourself to Bliss Gelato - just added to their offerings.

[Click to read the review as it appeared online in the Hamilton Spectator .]