Kitchen Bliss

“The Delta” - my childhood neighborhood - is enticing me back with new eateries - Café Baffico being a recent addition.

In the quirky space long ago occupied by “L’Escargot”, Jordan Weisz is offering affordable fine dining – Italian Style. Don’t expect white tablecloths. The “fine” refers to the food.

Jordan’s McMaster studies morphed into a culinary career in various Hamilton eateries. But his major kitchen influence has been Italy where he has traveled, studied and worked in a Michelin-star restaurant in Rome.

Jordan has adopted Hamilton and Italian cuisine. There is no “nonna” in the kitchen, but expertise and passion are not always rooted in origins. They say that the best Italian and French chefs in New York City are from Mexico.

The popularity of Italian Cuisine is surging, yet the term is not precise. “Italy” did not become a Republic until 1946 and has not yet marked its first centenary. It’s been described as a young country (comprised of many regions) with an ancient food history. Jordan’s main focus is on “Roman Style” cuisine.

The “Italian Way of Eating” assumes you will have five courses. An appetizer (antipasto), primo (a pasta), secondo (protein), sides (contorni), and dessert (dolce). The serving sizes at Café Baffico are generous but not gigantic, so you can go along for the entire five course ride!

I know. “Don’t fill up on bread in a resto”. But make an exception for this made in-house specialty. The Caponata – a Sicilian eggplant dish – came with the dark-crusted sour dough bread, lightly oiled, grilled, and sprinkled with sea salt. We heard others raving about the “bread and smoked butter” so we tried that as well. Unique and fabulous.

Another appetizer popular at adjoining tables was hummus. There is great debate about its origin, but few would expect it on an Italian menu. It is the creation of Fady Dawood, a member of the Baffico Culinary Team making creative contributions to the menu.

The intimate space seats only about 30. The décor combines calming colours, baroque chandeliers, neoclassical artwork, streetscape photos and exposed brick. Clay vases, water jugs and plates are made locally by Speck and Stone. You can have a private dining experience, but there is something about the space that invites interactions, and Jordan periodically emerges from the kitchen to chat with diners.

Of the four pastas linked to Roman Style cuisine, Café Baffico serves three - Carbonara, (sauce of eggs, cheese, pork, and black pepper), Cacio e Pepe (black pepper and Pecorino Romano), Amatriciana (tomato sauce, cheese and guanciale). The Amatriciana was delicious, though not artfully plated. We enjoyed the Carbonara - creamy and generous with guanciale – an ingredient I often replace with pancetta because of sticker shock. I’m now a convert and will save and splurge. Jordan goes for top notch ingredients, even garnishing the kale with expensive pine nuts. That being said, the menu is affordable.

Blanched kale sprinkled with oil, raisins and pine nuts was one of our sides – tender with the right amount of texture and exceptional flavour. The Rutabaga side was layered gratin-style and lightly spiced, not masking the flavour of the rutabaga – a vegetable we should enjoy more often.

The “Italian Way” delivers sides on separate plates enabling sharing, and they paired well with our mains. The Meatballs (beef, pork, bread, pecorino, garlic) were braised in tomato sauce. The result was moist, light and flavourful. I was surprised to see Cornish Hen on an Italian menu, but discovered this is common in the Friuli region. It was uncomplicated, enhanced by light sauces – tarragon cream and reduced carrot.

Other choices from “Mains” were Lamb and Eggplant Parmigiana. The thin crust pizzas, made from a sour dough, were enjoyed at nearby tables.

While some of Jordan’s ingredients are imported for optimal authentic quality, he uses local suppliers as much as possible. Wine and beer are local and imported, with ciders and Kombucha on tap.

Dessert choices were Bread Pudding, Cheese or Tiramisu. We shared the delicious Tiramisu. It was followed by a surprise. Jordan was chatting with guests and asked if we liked funky cheese. He returned with more bread and a wee bowl of Swiss Vacherin Mont D’Or, considered by some to be the Holy Grail of raw milk cheese. It was gifted to Jordan and he was sharing. Holy Grail? All we could say was holy cow – and thank you!

The chalkboard menu gives a chef freedom to be spontaneous. Creative additions will undoubtedly appear on the mainly Italian menu. These are early days for Café Baffico. Look forward to more on the breakfast menu, and specials featuring family style servings of pasta and pizza. One day you may even be able to attend cooking classes with the Café Baffico Family. (Speaking of family – they are family-friendly!)

[Click to read the review as it appeared online in the Hamilton Spectator - with interior/exterior photos.]